In the world of upscale restaurant chains, Seasons 52’s philosophy of fresh, seasonally inspired dishes is something to celebrate. The fact that the per-item calorie count remains below 475 is refreshing, too.

So the philosophy underpinning the menu at Seasons 52 sets it in a league of its own. As does the décor: Nearly every aspect speaks to the natural elements or some other facet of nature. The fire gently burning at the entrance, the use of natural wood tones throughout—that sort of thing.

But as with all restaurants, the food is what matters most. And in that regard, Seasons 52 has enough well-considered highlights to keep the crowds coming.

Rosemary and parmesan crispbread started things off right, the telltale perfume of the rosemary enveloping our table and creating a sort of aromatic bubble around us. What fascinated me most about this preparation was the shift in texture as it cooled off: It arrived crisp at the edges and a touch softer in the center, though as it lost its edge of heat from the oven, it grew snappy in its entirety. Interactive food at is best, and a nice, light way to begin.

For all its lightness, however, those crispbreads packed enough of a flavor punch to make the transition to more complex appetizers easy. In fact, the lingering aroma of the rosemary worked brilliantly with the Colorado buffalo chile, a rich, deeply glistening, and highly successful argument for branching out and trying meats you may not be terribly familiar with. In this case, the buffalo lent the preparation a delicate earthiness that anchored the stew without overwhelming it. With just a touch more cilantro sour cream, this would have been perfect.

On the lighter side of things were the chipotle-glazed prawns. Here the smoky prickle provided by the chipotle was employed with real thought, and it highlighted the natural sweetness of the perfectly cooked prawns themselves. The oniony guacamole on the side was also excellent.

The turkey tenderloin skewer was complemented by the other flavors on the plate, including well-balanced smokey-sweet yellow and red peppers, zippy onions and concentrated mushrooms.

In the lemongrass salmon salad, the flavors were spot-on—the instantly identifiable perfume of lemongrass played beautifully against the sweet grilled pineapple studding the organic field lettuces and the toasted sesame dressing glistening throughout.

Desserts brought things to a happy close, and an ingenious one at that: The “mini indulgences”—small parfait-sized portions served in oversized shot glasses—mean that self-control is quite unnecessary at this stage. The baklava parfait’s delicate snap and smart kiss of honey sweetness made it an excellent end to the meal.

Seasons 52 is an important turning point in upscale-chain dining. And the fact that it provides generally solid and overall healthy food at a fair price makes it a solid option. The crowds certainly seem to prove that it’s hitting its mark in that regard.

Seasons 52
King of Prussia Mall
160 N. Gulph Road, King of Prussia
610-992-1152
Seasons52.com

Brian Freedman is a food and wine writer based in Philadelphia. (BrianFreedmanPhiladelphia.com)
Rob Hall is a freelance photographer from Plumsteadville.