Destination Station
The Pullman Restaurant and Bar in Bryn Mawr provides an inimitable guest experience, known for its diverse cuisine, finely curated cocktails, and an atmosphere unlike any other.
Roni Hammer has had hospitality in her heart for a long time. She opened her first restaurant, Snooks Bayside Restaurant, on the waterfront of Key Largo, Florida, in 1994.
Her latest passion project, The Pullman Restaurant & Bar in Bryn Mawr, opened to rave reviews upon its launch nearly one year ago. Brought to life through Two Dames Dining Group, the collaborative Roni co-founded with her daughter, Jennifer Hammer, The Pullman has since become a destination for fine dining, craft cocktails, and gatherings for all occasions.
“We worked on the building for almost two years before opening,” Roni shares. “It’s a historic building that has seen the incarnations of several restaurants before us, including Tango and Central Bar & Grill, but we designed the space to suit our needs.”
A former freight house and part of one of the first rail stations on the Main Line, the building has retained its aura of comfort and sophistication. The Pullman has a spacious yet intimate feel, with high ceilings and chic spaces well suited for quiet conversation, plus larger dining rooms for a livelier vibe, all sharing the same regal deep-blue tones.
At the heart of The Pullman is a double-sided bar surrounded by banquettes and candlelit marble tables. A lounge area features a large blue piano, which offers live music to entertain guests Thursdays through Saturdays. The main dining room runs alongside the railroad tracks for views best described as inspired. Roni says many guests have told her they have “never seen anything like it.”
The restaurant accommodates up to 250 guests, while the private club-car space can suit gatherings of up to 25 people. Roni says the room is a popular year-round choice for family get-togethers and corporate events. Likewise, parties can book the whole bar area if they desire. An alfresco space known as the 10/14 Bar on the Rails is available for dining and cocktails in fairer weather.
The Pullman is best known for its culinary offerings, as created by the acclaimed chef and former restaurateur Corey Baver. Roni cites the distinctive Chilean seabass, which Chef Baver prepares with fennel pollen, fregola sarda (a Sardinian pasta akin to couscous), morel mushrooms, asparagus, and a lobster demi. Other favorites include the whole branzino, made with white wine, olives, tomatoes, and capers, as well as the Wagyu meatloaf, a chef’s special served with haricot verts wrapped in bacon, whipped potatoes, and gravy.
“We offer a wide variety of foods, including the Pullman Burger,” Roni adds. “We also do pastas like our clams and linguine and appetizers like lobster bites that are tempura-fried and oysters Rockefeller. We also have a wonderful pastry chef who makes pastries that are to die for.”
The Pullman also offers an outstanding selection of libations, including a “fabulous” wine line and a selection of hyper-local beers from breweries in nearby Berwyn, Conshohocken, King of Prussia, and Philadelphia. The knowledgeable bartending staff recreates the beer and cocktail program about every four months. In addition, The Pullman offers a “BYOB” option on Wednesdays to suit oenophiles who wish to bring their favorite bottles.
Specialty cocktails include out-of-the-box takes on some well-known classics, including the espresso martini, a blend of Stateside vodka, vanilla vodka, espresso liqueur, Amaro herbal liqueur, cold brew, and a touch of Demerara sugar for sweetness. The “Vesper” martini features Empress gin, which imbues the cocktail with a bright and beautiful hue, while the “Pumpkin, Spice & Everything Nice” mixes Boardroom vodka with pumpkin liqueur, pumpkin purée, and a special winter spice syrup. A lineup of mocktails, or nonalcoholic cocktails, includes offerings such as “The Great Pretender,” which combines lemon, lime, pineapple, orange, passionfruit, ginger syrup, and cranberry.
“There is attention to detail in every aspect of the dining experience here, from the knock-out interior design to the way the food is presented and served and the care the guests are given,” Roni says. “The nook seats by the bar can seat up to 10, and there is also a little private room that seats eight. This is a big restaurant with a lot of different niches and personalities.”
It’s no wonder The Pullman has become the go-to place for ambiance and high-class cuisine on the Main Line. As Roni says, “We want food that’s comfortable, with a nice variety to suit as many appetites as possible, served in a distinctive space that’s unlike anything people have ever seen.”
The Pullman
39 Morris Ave.
Bryn Mawr, PA 19010
thepullmanrestaurant.com
(610) 727-0777
39 Morris Ave.
Bryn Mawr, PA 19010
thepullmanrestaurant.com
(610) 727-0777
Photo by Nina Lea Photography
Published (and copyrighted) in Suburban Life, October 2023.